Little did we know when we set off for our long weekend in Wales that it would be the last trip we’d take in the old Sprite van. I’m glad I didn’t know because I would have spent the whole weekend wallowing in self absorbent, maudlin farewells – however, more on that later.
The journey to Wales is a pretty straightforward 37 junctions down the M4! The weather forecast was a bit grim, with rain predicted to get worse each day and true enough it started spattering as we crossed the Severn Bridge. We’re staying at Gowerton at the Noth Eastern end of the Gower Penninsula. It’s a Caravan Club site with its usual efficiency and rules but lacking a bit in individuality and imagination. We found a nice spot with our back to some tress and plenty of room around us, and we even managed to get a limited TV reception which is a bit of a treat.
After pitching up we decided to take a walk into town and look for a friendly pub. The site backed onto a small wood and large playing fields attached to a sports centre, but beyond that It was pretty uninspiring. After a few unremarkable streets we came across the Welcome to Gower pub and stopped off for a couple of drinks and a passable supper.
The rain came back in the evening, but more of a heavy mist than a downpour, so we braved our usual dusk dog walk in a surprizingly large dog walking area and nearly got lost in the evening gloom!
Saturday 11th June
Saturday dawned very dull and grey but we put on our shorts and carried on regardless! Today’s plan was a visit to Mumbles. Not sure if its ‘Mumbles’ or ‘The Mumbles’ but the place name is odd and part of the attraction. The origin of the name “Mumbles” is obscure, it could possibly be from Middle English momele (“to mumble”), describing the “mumbling” of the sea next to the rocks; but I prefer the Latin mamillae meaning “breasts”, in reference to the breast shaped silhouette of the islands and headland! (Wikipedia).
We went today because we wanted to visit the Farmer’s Market, but it wasn’t up to much. Instead we wandered around the pleasant town and then went for a quick visit to Oystermouth Castle, a Norman stone castle from 1106.
We wanted to explore Mumbles Head which promises a pier and lighthouse but we seemed to just drive through without seeing anything or anywhere obvious to stop and park. So we drove on through to visit the Heritage centre at Parkmill. This was another disappointment as it was geared towards children, had an expensive admission fee and dogs weren’t allowed! So off we went again to explore Oxwich bay which was recommended by a very jolly Welsh car park attendant in a high vis jacket.
The beach was lovely and we had a bracing walk much enjoyed by Jim, and stopped on the dunes for a mini picnic.
From here we went along the coast a bit further to Port Eynon, another lovely beach – this one busier with families noisily rock pooling, and fishermen messing around with their boats and nets. The sun came out and we celebrated the only way we know how at the beach – with a Flake 99!
There are certainly no shortage of wonderful beaches in the area. Dogs seem to be very welcome, there’s lots of soft sand, the rock pools are fascinating and it doesn’t seem to get very crowded.
Sunday 12th June
Despite the weather forecast, Sunday turned out to be fabulously hot and sunny. Today’s plan was Rhossili beach which we were looking forward to as it has been described in various travel guides as one of the best beaches in Europe.
Rhossili itself is a small village but is has everything; three miles of sandy shore, amazing views, Worm’s head, cliffs, and it even has a ship wreck!
We started by tackling Worm’s Head. Worm’s Head is a tidal island only accesible at low tide and made famous by Dylan Thomas who was stranded by the tides and had to spend the night after failing to get back to the mainland in time.
The walk along the cliff tops to Worm’s Head was wonderful, dotted with ‘bad hair day’ sheep grazing on frighteningly steep cliff edges in front of breath taking views.
There were a number of warnings on the approach advising visitors of tide times and we were quietly relieved to find out that we would be unable to make the crossing. The rocks looked daunting (and somewhat treacherous in places) and I’m not sure the dog, let alone us, would have made it without minor grazes and joint sprains! So we descended to the sea edge and sat for a while enjoying the view.
We wandered back along the cliff edge to the quaint village and after exploring a few shops we had some refreshments at a cliff top café overlooking the impressive beach.
The downside to the amazing beach view was the drop down that had to be tackled knowing that we had to trawl all the way up again! It was worth it though. The beach was breathtaking. The sun had come out in force and the vast sandy beach was only sparsely populated (one advantage of the challenging access I suppose). We wandered along the soft golden sand and explored the wreck, just there to be looked at and touched. The Helvetia was a Norwegian barque wrecked in a storm in 1887 (all survived). Its fascinating to see this piece of history and wonder about the people involved, but the Atlantic is eroding it bit by bit and it may not last too much longer.
We wandered along to the cliff edge and the rock pools were irrestible to our hot, tired feet, so we took off our heavy walking boots and sweaty socks and relished paddling in the cool Atlantic water. It was utterly magical. Jim absolutely loved it, happiest in soft sand and even took a dip in a rather deep pool, albeit tricked into it somewhat by the Man! At least he cooled off a bit!
The trek back up the cliff path was well worth it and we went back to the van weary but with the most happy memories and the touch of sun our skin. We will certainly be back.
And so to the tale of our goodbyes to the Sprite. When we got home we found out the The Man had received a refund from a pension which meant that we had he means to buy a newer caravan. It was sad to say good bye to old Sprite which had given us so many adventures and injected us with a love of ‘vanning – to that I would be forever grateful and I was sorry to see her go (to a good home I hope). But now we have our new ‘Dora the Explorer’ Adria Adora with more space and comfort and we are so excited to start on the next stage of our journey.
Me, the man, our dog, and a van 