Saturday 13th May
From the minute we passed over the border from England to Wales on the A458 between Shrewsbury and Welshpool we were enchanted by the rolling scenery; mountains loomed over valleys winding with rivers, dotted with sheep and their new lambs, picturesque cottages and farms nestling in cosy villages and all bathed in rare Welsh sunshine. We were enchanted, and it was well worth the 5 hour journey (with a brief comfort stop at the services on the M6 toll).
We knew we were in ‘real’ Wales as the road signs were all in Welsh with English translations as an added extra, there was infrequent wifi and radio 2 started stuttering!
We arrived at the camp site to a warm welcome and a friendly escort to our pitch backing onto a steep bank, and within earshot of the waves on the beach. Once we were set up, and after a welcome cup of tea, we went off to explore and found the beach a short and pleasant walk from the site. It was fabulous. Vast swathes of damp sand, regimented with weathered groins as far as the eye could see. The Dog loved it! A few people were out enjoying the evening sunshine and everyone we met was friendly and welcoming. What a wonderful place.
Sunday 14th May
It rained overnight – we are in Wales after all – but by morning the sun was out and we were looking forward to exploring the local town of Barmouth just a one and a half mile stroll along the sea front. This time the sea was frothing at the seawall and yesterday evening’s vast sandy beaches were lost beneath a swirling, broiling cauldron of waves.
The seaspray frequently burst over the path, so we chose to walk on the other side of the road until the coastline fell away as we came into the town. The coast line here was bordered by vast dunes decorated with tufts of pampass grass and opened onto a huge beach dotted with dogwalkers, picnicking families, kids with buckets and spades, kite flyers and surfers.
The neat tall Victorian houses looked over the activities on the beach, and every so often a welcoming weatherbeaten chalet enticed us with coffees, ice creams or brightly coloured buckets and spades. It was everything a seaside town should be and all backed by enchanting rocky mountains which form part of the south-western corner of the Snowdonia National Park.
We had a lovely wander around the quaint town with its bespoke shops and winding paths – not a Marks and Spencers or Costa coffee house in site! We refreshed ourselves with a skinny latte sitting in the sunshine before setting off to explore the Barmouth Heritage Trail.
Straight away we we challenged with a steep climb up the winding street to the imposing church, St John’s. If we thought the road to the church was steep, the path further up the hillside of Dinas Oleu was a lung bursting, leg aching challenge! This was the first piece of land donated to the National Trust in 1895 and it was well worth the climb. The views were awesome and the hillside was peaceful in the sunshine and abundant with Spring flowers.
We made a welcome stop for a drink and snack on a thoughtfully placed flint seat. We made our way slowly and carefully down the steep paths and steps of the old town that has been built into the side of the mountain. It was enchanting.
Little cottages all built on top of each other separated by winding paths festooned with tumbling nasturtiums and geraniums, looking over peoples slate roofs and tiny gardens. It is alleged to have inspired Tolkein when he describes the Shire in The Hobbit.
Our next venture was to cross the railway bridge over the Mawddach estuary. The walk across the old wooden bridge gives marvelous views along the estuary towards the mountains and the 2930 ft Cadair Idris. Look the other way and there are are stunning views of the town with its hillside houses and the vast tidal beach. The bridge opened in 1867 and originally included a drawbridge for tall ships to pass through. It is now a grade II listed structure and is one of longest timber viaducts still in regular use in the UK.
We wandered back into town and had a welcome stop for a cool Peroni beer, and a bit further on we picked up a 99 flake. You can’t get much more ‘seaside vibe’ than that!
Monday 15th May
Our hopes that the promised rain forecast was a fluke were dashed when we woke to the drumming on the roof and wind lashing at the awning! It was not a day to tackle Snowden. What choice did we have but roll over and have a long luxurious lie in followed by a leisurely breakfast.
We finally roused ourselves to venture out and explore Bala with hopes of a lull in the rain so we could walk along the lake. It was not to be – whether it was the gloominess of the rain or that Bala just didn’t fulfill its promise we’ll never know, but we just drove through town, past the market we saw in Barmouth yesterday, to a desultory funfair at the far end populated by obnoxious school kids on their lunch break.
We didn’t stop, but drove back round the East side of the lake through some very narrow lanes and ended up in Dolgellau, a market town at the end of the Mawddach estuary. It was a pleasant town with winding streets dotted with interesting shops but its lure was dulled by the rain, so we sheltered under the outside umbrellas at Yr Hen Efail and had a warming cup of coffee before heading back to the van to laze away the rest of the evening.
After hoping to log over 10 miles with our walk up Snowden today – we barely managed to walk a mile…!
Tuesday 16th May
The day dawned dull and misty so we weren’t quite sure what to plan, but its our 31st wedding anniversary so I felt that I deserved another luxurious lie in and leisurely breakfast.
We decide to explore Porthmadog (pronounced Port Madoc much to our eternal perplexion!). I don’t know why but it looked like a significant town with a harbour that might offer some diversion on dull and dreary Tuesday. We wandered the high street and explored shops unheard of in any other parish – which is always gratifying, but it was strangely unsatisfactory. So we thought that we’d explore Portmerion which we passed as we were driving and didn’t realise it was so near. The Man recalls its fame for ‘The Prisoner’, whereas I knew it only for its china. Portmeiroon ia a tourist village in Gwynedd, North Wales, designed and built by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis between 1925 and 1975 in the style of an Italian village, and is now owned by a charitable trust (his daughter designed the china). We drove past all the chintzy sign posts, only get to the very gates to be told ‘sorry no dogs’!. It’s a village! Why aren’t dogs allowed? We are responsible, we have poo bags…I was not happy and so we drove off in high dudgeon to explore Harlech.
Harlech not only offers a cutesy village brimming with striking azaleas, and grey stoned cottages, but there is a handsome castle and beach to die for. Harlech Castle is a medieval fortification built by Edward I during his invasion of Wales between 1282 and 1289 at the substantial cost of £8,190.
We stopped for a loo break at the The Plas in the high street, and had a very satisfying basket of scampi sitting on the terrace overlooking the awesome vista of Harlech beach far below in the shadow of the castle.
The castle allowed dogs, so was automatically a winner as far as I was concerned, and I was willing to overlook the hidoeus entry way to the castle – a steel and blue light state of the art gantry replacing what should have been a weathered draw bridge and port cullis. The entry fee was a bit steep (probably needed to pay for the entry bridge and fancy coffee shop), but the castle was a pleasant diversion. We wandered around, climbing trecherous steps up the towers to see the amazing views and poking our heads into vast cavernous ‘rooms’ dripping with damp, conjuring up images of what it must have been like 800 years ago. It was amazing to think that the sea originally came almost to the foot of the castle, whereas now there is a vast golf course, railway line and hideous static caravan site between it and the dunes shielding the sea.
So we had to visit the beach as the final treat of our visit. The beach was hidden by vast dunes waving with grasses and reached via a long path roped off between the golf course. When you arrive between the last grassy hussocks the vastness of the beach is awesome. It stretches away forever toward distant hazy mountains and is unblemished but for two or three people walking with their dogs a mile or so away. We walked and walked and The Dog was blissful – his most favourite place is a sandy beach. The wind was fresh and cleansing and fluffy white clouds scudded through washy blue skies – a perfect end to our stay.
To view all Barmouth May 2017 photos go to: https://www.flickr.com/photos/clooneyloon/
Me, the man, our dog, and a van 