Gowerton, Swansea, Wales: Friday 10th June – Monday 13th June 2016

Little did we know when we set off for our long weekend in Wales that it would be the last trip we’d take in the old Sprite van. I’m glad I didn’t know because I would have spent the whole weekend wallowing in self absorbent, maudlin farewells – however, more on that later.

The journey to Wales is a pretty straightforward 37 junctions down the M4! The weather forecast was a bit grim, with rain predicted to get worse each day and true enough it started spattering as we crossed the Severn Bridge. We’re staying at Gowerton at the Noth Eastern end of the Gower Penninsula. It’s a Caravan Club site with its usual efficiency and rules but lacking a bit in individuality and imagination. We found a nice spot with our back to some tress and plenty of room around us, and we even managed to get a limited TV reception which is a bit of a treat.

After pitching up we decided to take a walk into town and look for a friendly pub. The site backed onto a small wood and large playing fields attached to a sports centre, but beyond that It was pretty uninspiring. After a few unremarkable streets we came across the Welcome to Gower pub and stopped off for a couple of drinks and a passable supper.

The rain came back in the evening, but more of a heavy mist than a downpour, so we braved our usual dusk dog walk in a surprizingly large dog walking area and nearly got lost in the evening gloom!

Saturday 11^th June

Saturday dawned very dull and grey but we put on our shorts and carried on regardless! Today’s plan was a visit to Mumbles. Not sure if its ‘Mumbles’ or ‘The Mumbles’ but the place name is odd and part of the attraction. The origin of the name “Mumbles” is obscure, it could possibly be from Middle English momele (“to mumble”), describing the “mumbling” of the sea next to the rocks; but I prefer the Latin mamillae meaning “breasts”, in reference to the breast shaped silhouette of the islands and headland! (Wikipedia).

We went today because we wanted to visit the Farmer’s Market, but it wasn’t up to much. Instead we wandered around the pleasant town and then went for a quick visit to Oystermouth Castle, a Norman stone castle from 1106.

We wanted to explore Mumbles Head which promises a pier and lighthouse but we seemed to just drive through without seeing anything or anywhere obvious to stop and park. So we drove on through to visit the Heritage centre at Parkmill. This was another disappointment as it was geared towards children, had an expensive admission fee and dogs weren’t allowed!  So off we went again to explore Oxwich bay which was recommended by a very jolly Welsh car park attendant in a high vis jacket.

The beach was lovely and we had a bracing walk much enjoyed by Jim, and stopped on the dunes for a mini picnic.

From here we went along the coast a bit further to Port Eynon, another lovely beach – this one busier with families noisily rock pooling, and fishermen messing around with their boats and nets. The sun came out and we celebrated the only way we know how at the beach – with a Flake 99!

There are certainly no shortage of wonderful beaches in the area. Dogs seem to be very welcome, there’s lots of soft sand, the rock pools are fascinating and it doesn’t seem to get very crowded.

 Sunday 12^th June

Despite the weather forecast, Sunday turned out to be fabulously hot and sunny. Today’s plan was Rhossili beach which we were looking forward to as it has been described in various travel guides as one of the best beaches in Europe.

Rhossili itself is a small village but is has everything; three miles of sandy shore, amazing views, Worm’s head, cliffs, and it even has a ship wreck!

We started by tackling Worm’s Head. Worm’s Head is a tidal island only accesible at low tide and made famous by Dylan Thomas who was stranded by the tides and had to spend the night after failing to get back to the mainland in time.

The walk along the cliff tops to Worm’s Head was wonderful, dotted with ‘bad hair day’ sheep grazing on frighteningly steep cliff edges in front of breath taking views.

There were a number of warnings on the approach advising visitors of tide times and we were quietly relieved to find out that we would be unable to make the crossing. The rocks looked daunting (and somewhat treacherous in places) and I’m not sure the dog, let alone us, would have made it without minor grazes and joint sprains! So we descended to the sea edge and sat for a while enjoying the view.

We wandered back along the cliff edge to the quaint village and after exploring a few shops we had some refreshments at a cliff top café overlooking the impressive beach.

The downside to the amazing beach view was the drop down that had to be tackled knowing that we had to trawl all the way up again! It was worth it though. The beach was breathtaking. The sun had come out in force and the vast sandy beach was only sparsely populated (one advantage of the challenging access I suppose). We wandered along the soft golden sand and explored the wreck, just there to be looked at and touched. The Helvetia was a Norwegian barque wrecked in a storm in 1887 (all survived). Its fascinating to see this piece of history and wonder about the people involved, but the Atlantic is eroding it bit by bit and it may not last too much longer.

We wandered along to the cliff edge and the rock pools were irrestible to our hot, tired feet, so we took off our heavy walking boots and sweaty socks and relished paddling in the cool Atlantic water. It was utterly magical. Jim absolutely loved it, happiest in soft sand and even took a dip in a rather deep pool, albeit tricked into it somewhat by the Man! At least he cooled off a bit!

The trek back up the cliff path was well worth it and we went back to the van weary but with the most happy memories and the touch of sun our skin. We will certainly be back.

And so to the tale of our goodbyes to the Sprite. When we got home we found out the The Man had received a refund from a pension which meant that we had he means to buy a newer caravan. It was sad to say good bye to old Sprite which had given us so many adventures and injected us with a love of ‘vanning – to that I would be forever grateful and I was sorry to see her go (to a good home I hope). But now we have our new ‘Dora the Explorer’ Adria Adora with more space and comfort and we are so excited to start on the next stage of our journey.

Highland’s End Holiday Park, Eype, Bridport. Friday 13th May – Monday 16th May 2016

Our 3^rd trip of the year and I couldn’t help feeling more excitement than usual as the weekend promises good weather and we were returning to a favourite spot on the South coast in Dorset. We constantly reminisce about when and how frequently we’ve been here and although the landscape and roads have been well travelled and look comfortingly familiar, I think we’ve only properly visited Bridport once before. Of course I can refer to my caravan blog and so can say with confidence that we first visited Bridport in April 2015 at Bingham Grange and although we’ve been in the area a couple of time (Charmouth and Lyme Regis, Sept 2013 and again in Sept 2015) we’ve not been back to Bridport itself. Our fondness for Bridport has probably given us a false air of familiarity with it. Whatever the basis of our links with the area, we are both pleased to choose it as a destination for the weekend of our 30^th wedding anniversary!

Highland’s End is what I would call an independent site (not a Caravan Club or Caravan and Camping club site), and I must say I’m more drawn to venturing out of the comfort zone of these clubs. They are a great resource for novices when first setting out on the caravanning adventure and there is no doubt about their quality, but sometimes their locations are a bit limited and the corporate branding a bit restrictive. We’ve had some very pleasant experiences off piste (and some we’d rather not repeat!).

The journey was a bit longer than normal. We set off later than usual as we could not get on site before 3pm (why? – it’s not like they have to make the beds and change the towels), and the traffic was pretty heavy. Everyone probably had the same idea as us to get away for a sunny weekend? But we arrived in good time for a 3pm pitch up and got a lovely spot right in the corner with some welcome privacy and an unbroken view to the cliffs between West Bay and Eype. The sun was hot and we enjoyed a walk to the cliffs after setting up camp. Dinner was a BBQ and eaten sitting outside enjoying the waning of the day.

Saturday 14^th May

Saturday dawned sunny if crisp and we were happy with the novelty of eating breakfast alfresco after our morning ablutions. The Man was a bit dubious about the showers as he could not adjust the water temperature, so had a brisk shower dodging the molten lava, but I had a 9/10 experience (see previous blog for rating scores). Points were lost on the showers for the ridiculous ‘percussion’ controls whereby the shower stops on a regular basis and you have to hit the shower button to prevent the sudden onslaught of the sudden unwelcome chill while you are in a helplesslessly soapy state. I don’t understand the rationale for this. Do they not trust us to turn off the shower when we are finished? Are we so hopelessly inept that we would carry out our post shower ablutions while the shower is still running? To be fair I should give extra points for the roominess of the Highland’s End Showers,and I can’t fault them on the number of hooks supplied. During today’s shower I counted seven, but on Sunday I was rewarded with an overwhelming eleven hooks! I actually didn’t have enough stuff to hang on them all but I was ridiculously pleased with them all the same!

Today’s plan was to visit Bridport again and then onto Eype to walk over the coast path. Our last visit to Bridport conjured up lovely memories and today was not too different, but it was heaving and we fell out early on with someone who stole our parking space which was a frustrating start to our day. The street market was fabulous and I picked up some odds and ends that I was inordinately pleased with and the brass band gave an air of jauntiness to the proceedings. We had our usual coffee stop and a visit and purchases in Mountain Warehouse, and The Dog was fairly well behaved, so altogether not a bad start to the day.

We were being lazy and parked up at Eype Mouth car park (you can see our caravan site from the car park!). But we made up for it by walking a good 5 miles up along the South West coast path to Thornecombe beacon and then inland around the woods to the café at Down House Farm and then back through upper Eype to the car park.

The views from the top of the cliff at the Beacon were stunning. It was glorious. Sun, beautiful views, birdsong, and fellow walkers with cheery greetings. All in all we did 13769 steps (8.5 km), the most I’ve done this month. My phone also tells me that we climbed 36 floors but I think that just reflects the height of the beacon!

We got a bit lost around the woods but it was worth it for the fabulous carpet of bluebells. Every so often there was a sign for the café which was much lauded, but the signs were tantalisingly few and we had to guess the directions most of the time. Luckily we eventually stumbled upon it and I believe it’s remoteness and difficult navigation is all designed to keep people away as it is a nugget of fabulousness.

Traditional teas and specials amid a country style patio setting with water bowls for dogs and antique stoneware and rambling climbers. We had a lovely Lyme Bay crab bap which set us up nicely for the last leg of the walk along deserted country lanes and through summery fields of wild flowers – it was quite delightful and heart-lifting.

Back at the site we sat in the club house garden and tested the beverages at the site bar and restaurant (not a common feature of CC or C&C sites!) which was a welcome reward for our walking efforts and made for a mellow evening back at base.

 

Sunday 15^th May

The good weather persists which got The Man up and out of bed at an ungodly hour! Luckily I had slept well but it was still a rude awakening – if the Sunday service is still on Radio 4, its too early in my book!

Still, we managed another alfresco breakfast and then set off on foot over the cliffs to West Bay.

West Bay has been made famous by the popular TV show ‘Broadchurch’ and it’s cliffs never fail to inspire awe and a slight unease that they could crash to the beach below at any minute! We loved our last visit to West Bay, but today I felt a pang of disappointment as it seemed less congenial than I remembered. Albeit a bit later in the year and warmer meant the there were more crowds and there seemed to be a large flotilla of people who like to dress in leather and ride large very noisy motorbikes. Apart from a very quaint harbour in the centre, the rest of West Bay seems to have curiously missed a trick and the surrounding streets hold a hotch potch of unattractive coffee shops, high end apartments and  unidentified buildings that give off a slightly desolate air. So after a coffee we decided to go back to base and take a drive to Sidmouth for the afternoon.

Sidmouth appeared in the Doomsday Book as Sedemuda. Like many such settlements, it was originally a fishing village. Although attempts have been made to construct a harbour, none has succeeded. A lack of shelter in the bay prevented growth as a port. The wide esplanade has been a prominent feature since Regency times. A series of southwesterly storms in the early 1990s washed away much of the shingle beach protecting the masonry. A series of artificial rock islands was constructed to protect the sea front, and tons of pebbles were trucked in to replace the beach. Sidmouth remained a village until the fashion for coastal resorts grew in the Georgian and Victorian periods of the 18th and 19th centuries. The numerous fine Georgian and Regency villas and mansions are now mostly hotels. In 1819, George III’s son Edward, Duke of Kent, his wife, and baby daughter (the future Queen Victoria) came to stay at Woolbrook Glen for a few weeks. In less than a month he had died from an illness. The house later became the Royal Glen Hotel; a plaque on an exterior wall records the visit (Wikipedia).

Sidmouth was a pleasant surprise and just what I expect from an English seaside resort. We parked conveniently on the seafront with the personal touch of a cheerful car park attendant. There was a very conveniently placed ice cream booth gaily decorated with brightly coloured buckets and spades, so we had a 99 flake and felt like we were really at the seaside! We walked along the front to an enticing outcrop of rock at the end of the road and walked round the headland onto Jacob’s Ladder beach.

Jacob’s Ladder is a series of wooden steps leading up to the top of the red cliffs from the beach. An alternative route up is a steep path and we decided to take this as the steps looked a bit daunting. At the top we came across the delightful Connaught Gardens – a hidden gem of flower beds, winding paths and conveniently placed benches for quiet contemplation. Connaught Gardens date from around 1820. They were named after The Duke of Connaught, the third son of Queen Victoria and he officially opened the gardens in 1934, aged 84.

From here we walked back along the seafront to the other end of town, and a delightful clutch of streets with neat shops and coffee bars buzzing with cheerful people out for a Sunday afternoon stroll. It was lovely and I was very pleased we’d decided to visit. My faith in the traditional British seaside town was suitably restored. It was a fairly long journey back to the Van, and we drove through another favourite town – Lyme Regis. The place was heaving and we got stuck in a bit of traffic going through town. As I was idly gazing out of the car window I witnessed two middle aged couples suitably alarmed at being liberally doused with a considerable amount of seagull faecal matter –another British seaside tradition!

The late afternoon/evening got a bit chilly so we took down the awning in readiness for home tomorrow, and cosied up in the Van for the evening. We ended the trip with another seaside tradition – take away fish and chips! It was a fabulous weekend and we’ll definitely come back to this site again.

 

 

Crowborough Club Site, East Sussex – April 2016

 

Friday 22^nd April 2016

We’ve had a few days of wonderful Spring sunshine, so it stands to reason that the temperature is going to drop to freezing, and rain and snow is forecast for the weekend that we have planned our second caravan trip of the year. The rain held off though and we stubbornly maintain our optimistic cynicism about the accuracy of the weather forecast.

We had an uneventful journey to the Crowborough site and were enthusiastically directed to pitch up on grass by a man on a bicycle. He gave us dire warnings of the forcast for rain, and warned us that we might get stuck in the mud! There were no free hard standing pitches so we had little choice. We ended up in the far corner of a deserted field backing onto an allotment and with views over East Sussex. It was quite lovely.

After the pitching up chores we took a stroll past the leisure centre next door and up the hill to the town centre to explore the local shops. There was a whiff of 1950s in the bespoke shops that competed with the soulless estate agents and coffee shops, and lent quite an air of charm to the place. A smattering of charity shops hid some particularly exciting treasures and I came away with an old faded hard back copy of Reach For The Sky, and some vintage postcards – I’ll have to go back sometime to have another poke about.

We had forgotten to put the caravan clock forward so our evening passed more quickly than we had prepared. When we ventured out for the evening dog walk routine it was raining and our hearts sank a bit, but in spite of being lulled to sleep by the patter of rain on the van roof all night, we woke to sparkling sunshine.   

Saturday 23^rd April

We embarked on the usual morning routine showers. Much is made of the state of the camp shower – as if it is a surrogate marker of the quality of the camp. Tim & Shirley (the camp managers) had notices in the shower block that they had won ‘Toilet of the Year’, so I had high expectations.

Over the few years we’ve been caravanning we have developed the following quality measures for the optimum shower experience:

1. Clean (of course)
2. Warm
3. No queuing
4. Space to move around in the cubicle for people who are not a size 6
5. Separate area for showering and drying – even if only separated by a curtain
6. At least 4 hooks
7. A stool/chair
8. Hot water at a force greater than the average watering can
9. A continuous supply of water (NOT those awful timers that shut off every 20 seconds)
10. Hairdryer

The Crowborough shower experience scored 8/10 ( I was harsh with the score for the force of the shower)

After our usual breakfast we drove a fair distance into Brighton. I’ve been to Brighton a number of times and I must admit it’s not my favourite British seaside resort. It is a must do experience, but it’s become a place to see and be seen, and it’s reputation means that local charges are 10 times what other more quaint resorts charge (£8 for 2 hours parking). Every other street sees a herd of hen nighters shrieking along the pavement dressed in various creations of pink/white lace amid an underlying atmosphere of seedy back streets and a mysterious subculture that a couple of old caravan nerds will never be privvy to!

Still, we enjoyed a beach side coffee people watching, and wandered The Lanes window shopping, taking photos of both piers (I must say I prefer the dead one), stategically placed fishing boats and a number of Morris Dance teams jingling along the pavement (only in England!).

 

From here we drove a short distance to Rodean school for a free car park (believe me a rarity within 5 miles of Brighton) and the start of the 5 mile ‘Kipling, Rodean and Rottingdean Trail’ (iFootPath app).

The start along the top of the cliffs was briskly cold with a sharp wind, but the sky was blue behind the scudding fluffy clouds and the sea was a brilliant saphire. Once we got down onto the Undercliff Walk we warmed up out of the wind and enjoyed a long (if somewhat monotonous) stroll along the concrete path to Rottingdean. Halfway along we made a welcome stop at a coffee shop and were able to relax with the papers and eat our sandwiches in rare peace as Jim was able to stay off lead and amuse himself.

The walk took us through Rottingdean, a quaint village famous for being the home of Kipling and where Stanley Baldwin was married. We exited the village up the steep road to Beacon Hill and loved the spectacle of the random windmill as you came through the gate onto the green.

Beacon Mill, was built in 1802 and was working until 1881. By 1890 it was in such bad condition that demolition was considered. In 1905, the Marquis of Abergavenny had the mill repaired (spookily our last caravan trip was to Abergavenny), but the mill was derelict again by the early 1920s.

The mill’s disrepair resulted in many efforts by landowners and villagers to preserve it. The machinery was removed and an internal steel framework fitted to hold the structure together. In 2001 a £40,000 Heritage Lottery Grant enabled the sails, or “sweeps” as they are known, to be restored. The current Trustees of the mill are The Rottingdean Preservation Society.

Once past the windmill and at the top of the hill we enjoyed the wonderful views over the South Downs and the coast. We climbed steadily to the high fence around Rodean school – whether to keep people out or the girls in I’m not sure, but at £11000/term they’re not taking any chances. I don’t know any of the famous Rodeanian girls but apparently Lady Penelope (Thunderbirds) and Chummy (Call the Midwife) are worthy fictional alumni!

Once past the school we made a steep decline through patchwork fields (The Man spotting a fox on the way) to the car. Back at the van we were able to relax feeling satisfied we’d done a good walk and had earned the evening’s wine and lager rations!

Sunday 24^th April

We seemed to have had a later morning today, probably because neither of us had slept that well. The Dog seems to prefer my bed more than his so I spend most of the night squeezed against the wall and wake up stiff and groggy! Never mind – it meant that we could listen to the Archers while having our breakfast!

Today our plan was to visit Royal Tunbridge Wells and then do a walk around Ashdown Forest exploring the inspiration for Winnie the Pooh.

Royal Tunbridge Wells dates back to the early 17^th century when a mineral spring was discovered and became a tourist attraction. The Pantiles is a Georgian colonnade in the town and much lauded, so we felt it deserved a visit. Formerly known as The Walks and the (Royal) Parade, it leads from the well that gave the town its name. The area was created following the discovery of a spring in the early 17th century and is now a popular tourist attraction. At the time of our visit there was a Wedding Exhibition market in progress, so we wandered past puffs of white lace and trays of pastel coloured macaroons and sat in the watery sunshine with a coffee and a toasted tea cake.

We were keen to get on with the walk in Ashdown Forest so we didn’t stay long in town. We wanted to find the Ashdown Forest Visitors Centre, but the Sat Nav took us to a closed off country park, and the website was frustratingly unhelpful. All was forgiven though when we parked up at Gills lap car park in the warm sunshine and started our six mile walk around some of the iconic landmarks featured in Winnie-The-Pooh.

The forest starts off as more heathland than forest and is very similar to the New Forest. All along the route were helpful stone mounted maps, signposts and welcome benches. We passed the enchanted place, looked at Pooh bridge (we couldn’t play Pooh sticks because the bridge was closed for repair), walked through Hundred Aker wood and looked out over Eyeore’s Gloomy Place.

It was an enchanting walk, albeit the climbs were a little challenging, but at the end we were rewarded with a substantial 99 flake from an ice cream van conveniently located in the car park.

It was short drive back to the van and we felt very pleased with ourselves for doing the walk. It was time to relax and enjoy our last restful night.

Monday 25^th April

The last morning is always spent packing up the van. We can take it easy, showers, dog walk, breakfast, then cleaning and tidying – we generally don’t need to leave the site until 12:00, but this morning I wanted an extra trip into town to take one more look at the charity shops. So I left The Man packing up the awning and enjoyed an hour poking through the most marvellous charity shop. Packed with boxes full of scrap booking, sewing and crafting treasures, as well as old books and countless other curios that could have occupied me in blissful browsing for hours, but alas I had to get back, so I hastened to the second shop that I wanted to explore.

Benefactors was like a cross between Arkwrights, Auntie Wainwrights and Harrington’s (the shop that inspired the famous ‘Fork Handles’ sketch by the Two Ronnies). It was closed when we went into town on Saturday, but a glance through the grimy, cobwebbed windows revealed a veritable Alladin’s cave of every possible household item that you could ever want. I was inordinately pleased that the shop was open and run by a cheerful couple, the woman was even wearing a pair of fingerless gloves. While the man bartered with a customer over some tins of scarlett paint, I was ridiculously thrilled to pick up a scrubbing brush, 55 sewing needles and a large tube of Uhu for £3.50!

This is somewhere that we have to revisit!

 

 

Pandy Caravan Club site, Pandy, Wales Friday 18th – Monday 21st March 2016

Our first trip of the year and the build up has been as therapeutic as the break promises to be. It’s been a lot of fun getting the van ready after its Winter break, cleaning and stocking up, planning meals and deciding on the local trips and walks.

It started with a bit of a hiccough as we had planned to explore the Wye Valley but realised at the last minute that the site we booked had no toilet or shower facilities – we’re not quite that into getting back to nature. So we swiftly rebooked to the Pandy site next to the Brecon Becons in South Wales.
The journey was surprizingly easy and only took a couple of hours. First impressions were that the site was pleasant enough, but we made a slight pitch error and started setting up in a blue post pitch rather than a white post, and apparently everyone knows that blue posts mean that you can’t put up an awning! So we had to saddle up and move to an approved awning area. Not so bad, but the weather was bitingly cold and we were keen to get settled.
After a warming cup of tea and our picnic lunch we bundled into warm coats and set off to explore the dog walk. It was set in a delightful area at the end of the site alongside the bubbling river Monnow, peppered with daffodils and Spring flowers, and dipping grey wagtails.

We then strolled to the The Old Pandy Inn 50 yards from the site and which very graciously allowed dogs in the public bar. It was welcomingly warm and a pint of Batty Bach and a large Pinot helped us get started into our weekend break.
Saturday 19th March

We had a lovely day today. Even though it was bitterly cold we stayed snug and warm in our cosy van and I slept well (with the aid of an eye mask and ear plugs). I didn’t even mind when a small furry friend joined me on my bed in the middle of the night. The day dawned cold and overcast but stayed dry, and after a fortifying breakfast we set off to explore Abergavenny, a market town in Monmouthshire.

At first glance the town seemed to be a bit neglected and washed up, but as you walked further into the centre it rallied into a bustling hive of bespoke shops and UK highstreet regulars. We explored the indoor market and bought some warm clothes ideal for our walking adventures. We took a coffee break, but Jim behaved rather badly and was shown up by a rather beautiful Rottweiler puppy called Gwenny. She was very well behaved and we eventually slunk out of the coffee shop red faced, dragging a yapping, straining Jim behind us!

From here it was a short drive to the base of Skirrid Fawr for the start of a 3 mile walk around and along this 480 metre high ridge.

It was a challenging walk and took us nearly 3 hours, but it was worth it for the amazing views of Herefordshire, the Mendips, Brecon Beacons and the Black Mountains.

The descent was almost as hard as the climb and out joints and muscles will no doubt object over the next few hours, but it was very satisfying achievement for two old crocs!

Back to our warm van for a welcoming cup of tea and a plate of Welsh cakes. The evening caravan ritual is a period of relaxation whatever that may be: the daily papers, blogging, local research and planning the next day’s adventures. This is often oiled with plenty of wine and lager and then enjoying an evening meal that we’ve often planned well in advance. Tonight was our usual Saturday night curry.

After dinner the lack of TV reception means we rely on DVDs, which is quite nice in a way, and we have got into the habit of watching box sets. Last year we mastered the whole of the enthralling ‘Breaking Bad’ saga. This year we have the choice of ‘24’ and ‘Homeland’, but we still need to keep on with ‘The Sopranos’ which we dip into from time to time. This is often accompanied by large quantities of chocolate! The Dog gets an evening walk and then we bed down for the night – usually obscenely early – I blame all the fresh air!
Sunday 20th March

Another day dawned with no hint of rain and the bitterness seems to have gone out of the cold, so it’s now just ‘cold’. We chickened out of tackling Pen y Fan today. We were still a bit stiff after tackling the 480 metres of Skirrid so thought that the 840 metres of Pen Y Fan might be a step too far. Instead, we decided to explore Hay-on Wye.

Hay is a border town famous for its books and there were certainly a lot of book shops (more than 30 shops selling 1 million books), but it was disappointingly missing a sense of bustle and community. Many of the shops were closed but those that were open catered for the elite and well heeled. Bobble hat for £40? I resisted…

We did explore the Hay Cinema Book shop and bought 6 books for £1 each. They were a wide range from old classics to a couple of modern hard backs, one of them is a paticularly beautiful bird book, so we felt that we had got quite a bargain

After that we did a 2 mile round trip walk courtesy of the iFootPath app (highly recommended) along the river Wye and down the former mid-Wales railway line (closed in 1961). The sun came out and it was lovely and peaceful: bobbing swans, a bubbling river and a short break with a Gregg’s sausage roll – heaven! The walk also took in Hay castle, a Norman castle destroyed by Owain Glyndwr in 1402.

From Hay-on-Rye we drove down through the Ewyas valley with the Offa’s Dyke Pass high on the ridge to our East. It was wonderfully Welsh with grazing sheep and the wonderfully shaggy Highland cattle gazing benignly at us like stoned beatniks!.

The mountains were impressive (the 2 dots on the left are people) and the afternoon sun cast an array of earthy colours on the landscape. The road was narrow and winding and followed the river through tiny hamlets and past remote cottages.

We ended up in Cwmyoy to have a look at the 12th century St Martin’s church, dubbed the most crooked church in Britain. It was built on an unstable hillside of old red sandstone and marl to cause the tower and chancel to move in opposite directions and twisting the entire structure. The setting was idyllic and peaceful, a profusion of yellow daffodils and afternoon sunshine.

This was a fitting end to our visit and we drove back in Spring sunshine to our cosy van a couple of miles away. We’ll be coming back and you never know, we may yet tackle the challenge of Pen y Fan!

Holmsley Caravan Park, Bransgore, New Forest. Friday 16th October – Monday 19th October 2015

We figured that this would probably be our last caravan trip of 2015 so we want to make the most of it. We booked the New Forest as it’s relatively close to home, but in a beautiful part of the country and close to the sea.

We still managed to get lost on the way and had to turn around in a country lane – no mean feat with the van on the back! We eventually arrived and realised that we were just down the road from the park where we spent our first ever trip at the Caravan Club Centenary Site.

Holmsley park is a Camping and Caravanning site and based on a WW2 air field – there is an airfield memorial just down the road

RAF Holmsley South is a former World War II airfield in Hampshire, England. The airfield is located approximately 5 miles (8.0 km) northeast of Christchurch, Dorset; about 90 miles (140 km) southwest of London

Opened in 1942, it was used by both the Royal Air Force and United States Army Air Forces. During the war it was used primarily as a bomber and later as a transport airfield. After the war it was closed in late 1946. Christchurch Council from December 1946 to 1961 used the old accommodation sites including WAAF Nissen Huts as temporary accommodation for families waiting for a council house (Wikipedia).

The site didn’t make a first great impression. It is literally on an airfield and there are no roads or pointers to the pitches, just small white posts dotted around. This gives you the feeling that you are ‘wild camping’, which may be the great for some, but it’s a bit too basic for me and the Man. The site had definitely ramped down for out of season, with a skeleton crew and most of the facilities closed. The promised ‘take away’ was desultory and added to the lack lustre ambiance of the site. On a more positive note we pitched our van under the trees on the edge of the site that backed right onto a vast area of the Forest.

We went for a late afternoon walk and horses were grazing just outside our back door. It was quite lovely. The Forest was resplendent in Autumn colours, bracken and heather hugged the cropped grass, dotted with peacefully grazing horses, cows and pigs.

Saturday 17^th October

The good news is it’s not raining – must be a first! We had our usual morning routine of a cup of coffee in bed, radio 4, bed making, showers (a bit basic and cramped), dog walk and breakfast (fresh coffee, OJ and sausage baps – lush!).

Today’s plan was a bit loose, but we decided to visit the town of Lymington and then walk around Keyhaven Marshes.  Lymington is a pleasant estuary town with a typical British high street leading down to the more high-end quay and marina.  The town was livened a bit by an interesting street long market and we had a pleasant coffee and cake in a quaint side street café that provided free dog biscuits and hot water bottles for those that had to sit outside – how thoughtful!

We drove onto Keyhaven and parked near the Yacht club to set off for our 5k walk around the Marshes and Nature Reserve. It was reminiscent of one of our earlier ventures when we walked to Hurst Castle and lighthouse which we could see as a constant happy reminder in the distance.

The walk was lovely, with the marshes on both sides and the Solent in the distance to our right. There were lots of birds which we mostly failed to identify (despite the Man’s BS!) and now we’re determined to bring our book of ‘British Birds’ on future ventures. We think we saw an egret and a plover, and some Brent geese, but I’ll need to confirm!

After a bracing walk the only thing is a nice cup of tea and hot buttered crumpets, so we came back to the cosy van to relax with the Saturday papers.

 Sunday 18^th October

Another rainless night…dare we hope this will continue?

We slept in this morning, undisturbed on the edge of the forest, quiet and peaceful – and my earplugs helped! I was first in the shower this morning so the Man did bed making duties and I took Jim for a walk. It was so pleasant walking along the heathland with no-one about and just a few horses quietly grazing in the background. I stayed out longer than I meant to but the Man had still not got breakfast ready by the time we got back to the van!

This morning we went down to Mudeford, back to where it all began three years ago. It was a gloriously crisp, sunny Autumn day and we strolled along the beach to the quay, passing a handful of families crabbing along the seawall.

 

After a coffee we took the ferry over to Hengistbury Head to wander along the sandy beach and lust after all the turquoise and weather beaten white beach huts. We made up stories about an idyllic life with our non-existent grandchildren, in endless sunshine involving family Bar-B-Qs and damp, shaggy golden labradors. This is a world where Jim is endearingly obedient and I tan easily and evenly to a lush golden brown (oh – and I’m also quite slim!).

After wandering back along the beach to the car we ventured into Christchurch town to have a look around – we were quite surprized that we hadn’t been there before.

It is a quaint, appealing town looked over by an imposingly handsome church. We decided to have a late lunch in Ye Old George Inn, and managed to indulge ourselves with the Sunday papers in spite of some persistent attention seeking behaviour from the Dog!

Warners Farm Caravan Park, Selsey. Friday 6th – Monday 9th November 2015

 

So our last trip in October was supposed to be our final one for the year but we just couldn’t resist another trip – the Winter is a long time to be without our caravan ventures! But this trip was a mistake! We were a bit disappointed with the quality of the last trip so decided to book a luxury final adventure to Concierge near Chichester, but the advert was really close to an advert for Bunn holiday camps! £130 for 3 nights and no refunds – I only realised my mistake a few days ago so we were committed. Still – big camp site, lots of facilities, swimming pool, entertainment, restaurants – you never know it might be great….

We set off in rain and arrived in a misty drizzle. The Man sorts the outside and I make the van cozy and homey, put the kettle on and get the place warmed up.  I have to help the Man put the awning up and this was a bit of a challenge in the gale force winds – apparently there is a storm approaching so severe it will be the first named in the UK – so welcome Abigail!

We decided to explore and set off to walk to the beach (which is described as a stroll in the brochure). Thirty minutes later after walking through row upon depressing row of tin boxes (static caravans) we came to the ‘Embassy Suites’, pool and beach. It was pretty awful. The grey skies, rain and wind didn’t help… but it was awful. My plans for a daily morning swim in the swimming pool were dashed and we decided that we’d have to ditch our plan to eat out for one night. We walked back and got lost in the monotony of thousands of faceless empty caravans but eventually found our way back to the comfort of the Van, warmth and wine.

Saturday 7^th November

We were buffeted all night by Abigail, but the awning stood the test and was still viable when we un-battened the hatches in the morning. The rain gave us an excuse for a very lazy morning. We still needed to venture out to the shower blocks but they weren’t too bad – at least they were an improvement on our last trip. I feel that a site’s shower blocks are quite a good indication of the pervading atmosphere and ‘culture’ of the site. Cleanliness and efficiency are important but the shower experience can be made a misery by too few hooks! This one has two; not quite enough to hang clothes and towels!

Rain or no rain we had to go out. So Chichester was the plan for today. A wander around the town and a walk round the ancient city walls.  

The town was lovely and I would have loved to have been able to explore it more comfortably in better weather. A number of streets fanned out from the Chichester Cross in the centre and of course the Cathedral dominates the West side.

After a wander around the town we walked the City walls. It is 1800 years since the walls and gates were first built around the Roman town of Noviomagus Reginorum. Today they are the most intact circuit of Roman town defences in Southern England. More than 80% of the original structure has withstood the test of time and virtually the whole of the circuit is publicly accessible.

Sunday 18^th October

The winds have died down and no rain so things are looking up. It is beaches day today. We set off to explore West Wittering and East Wittering and then went on to Pagham Harbour.

West Wittering was divine and you can see the appeal from Londoners and the Chichester city dwellers but I wouldn’t fancy tackling the trip at the height of the season. Access was by one road that would down to the beach and ended in a large area for car parking – very reasonable at £2, but I can imagine the frustration of the Summer traffic jams. It was briefly considered as a desired retirement destination, especially the handful of houses whode back gardens actually opened up onto the vast sandy beach! But the congestion and high real estate price tags were a bit off putting. Still we can still enjoy a Winter walk along this sublime beach.

It had everything. Miles of soft golden sand, dunes, beach huts and Sunday trippers wind surfing, hang gliding and kite flying. Dogs abounded on the beach and the fresh winds and watery sun blew away the Winter cobwebs and got us ready for the Beach Café. Alas, they missed a bit of a trick here, serving up glutinous coffee and walnut cake. Chips and burgers could be had through a strange arrangement of an outside grilling area but I’m sure Winter walkers would have been glad of some hot soup, crusty bread, crumpets and toasted tea cakes.

From here we went to explore East Wittering, which as beaches go is the West’s poorer cousin, but has a busier and more accessible shopping area. After a wander around we still had time before the sun went down so we drove a short distance to have a look at Pagham Harbour.

The RSPB (rspb.org.uk) says that Pagham Harbour is a glorious and peaceful nature reserve, one of the few undeveloped stretches of the Sussex coast, and an internationally important wetland site for wildlife. It’s a big, sheltered inlet that fills and empties with each tide, with wild ducks, geese and wading birds flitting to and fro. With a wealth of wildlife, beautiful landscapes, and a rich historical heritage, it is a great place to get away from it all. There is something of interest all year round. Resident species include little egrets, ringed plovers and lapwings. In spring and autumn, all sorts of migrant birds pass through. In the summer, lapwings and little terns breed, and butterflies flit along the hedgerows, dragonflies patrol the ponds, and lizards bask in the sun. Autumn and winter brings a waterbird spectacle, with up to 20,000 ducks, geese and waders feeding and roosting across the reserve, including large numbers of Brent geese and pintails.

It was a lovely walk, breezy and refreshing with lovely views and practically deserted. We walked for about 45 minutes before the light started going then made our way back to the Van for tea and crumpets.

A glorious sunset the previous evening had highlighted a windmill just across the fields and I regretted not taking the camera out to try and capture it. So this evening I set out to try and find it before the light was gone. Alas there was no spectacular sunset but I found the windmill and managed a few shots, albeit in the gloom of a November evening!

Monkton Wyld Farm Caravan Site, Charmouth. September 2015

Friday 11th September 2015

We were looking forward to returning to Charmouth which was one of our first caravan adventures and a firm favourite. But we like to experience different sites so this time it’s a Camping and Caravan Club site. Our journey was pretty awful. There was an accident on the A35 quite near to our destination and we were held up for over an hour while the emergency services did their thing. We didn’t get to the site until 5pm so not much time to do anything but drink wine and have supper.

Saturday 12^th September

It rained all night but had cleared by the morning so we went into Bridport (a retirement destination favourite) and had a lovely wander around the town and market.

We spent the afternoon mooching around Lyme Regis after a lunch of mussels and searching (endlessly) for fossils on the beach – still no luck. I’m determined to find a fossil, I even bought a book about it but it didn’t help. When we were parking the car a family were packing up and one of the kids had found an amazing ammonite just yards away…! I had to compromise with a fossil fridge magnet!

Sunday 13^th September

Still no rain and the day turned out warm and sunny. We went to Charmouth beach this morning. I didn’t think we’d been here before but we had and I think it was the previous bad weather that probably blotted it from my memory! The beach is lovely and Jim loves rolling in the sand but he disgraced himself when we stopped for a pub lunch and he had a shouting match with another JRT!

From here we went to the Golden Cap estate on Stonebarrow Hill, walking along the cliff paths to Cain’s folly. The views were wonderful and the sun a welcome companion.

We had a drive around to find a pub for an afternoon drink and also for me to access wifi. Wifi access is a constant source of frustration for me as I use social media and upload photos and blogs. The caravan sites seem to be frustratingly obtuse about supplying wifi and any that provide it willingly and free of charge always get a mark of approval from me. It seems that to be a caravanner you should really eschew the comforts of modern living – we have already given up TV, toilet comforts and  our own shower, I draw the line at no wifi!

So we drove to find a pub with wifi and ended up in the White Hart in Devon! A nice glass of wine and uploading all my photos and we’re all set.

Home to the van for the last night ritual – taking down and packing up the awning and a relaxing meal with lashings of wine – I wonder why I love this caravanning so much?

The Dales Tour.

Rivendale Caravan and Leisure Park, Alsop-en-le-Dale, Derbyshire

Friday 10th – Monday 13^th July 2015

Our week in the Dales started in glorious sunshine. We knew we were in for another long journey like our last trip to North Norfolk, so we stocked up with car sweets and a picnic. It was 165 miles, and it took about 4 and a half hours including a stop off at Warwick services. It’s a shame that motorway services don’t cater a bit better to the caravanning fraternity, you’re often slotted next to the articulated lorries among the rubbish and diesel fumes.

Our first site was run by the Camping and Caravaning club and boasts an elevated position in an old disused quarry. The backdrop to our pitch was a steeply chiselled dry stone cliff and the site was sheltered and teeming with birds and wild flowers. There were holiday homes and tents as well as touring caravans, and we were allocated a snug pitch between high hedges abundant with wild daisies scrambling over the granite rock.

After setting up camp we enjoyed the relatively novel experience of sitting in the evening sunshine with a cup of tea for me and a lager for the Man, before a walk around the site with the Dog. It was even good enough for a BBQ!

Saturday 11^th July

Not surprisingly we had both woken briefly overnight with the sound of rain on the roof, but by morning it had all blown over and the weather was fine again.

Today’s plan was a visit to Ashbourne and the famous market and then off to tackle the Tissington trail.

But first our morning ablutions – and I was not impressed. We’ve become discerning critics of site facilities and have been rather spoilt by the Caravan Club premier site standards. The showers were cramped and a bit grubby, with nowhere to put anything and I chose the wrong cubicle at the end which had everyone’s shower water sluicing through into my drain. Not pleasant. To add insult to injury the hairdryers could only be used with tokens purchased from reception….

It was market day in Ashbourne so the streets were busy with traffic and bustling with pedestrians. The town looked very quaint with bunting strewn across the streets and the narrow streets and alleyways revealed fascinating little shops and coffee houses. The world famous market was a bit disappointing, but we found a couple of hours of entertainment wandering around sampling the coffee and the odd pint.

Our next stop was Tissington, a small village between Ashbourne and our site at Alsop-en-le-Dale. Famous for Tissington Hall, well dressing and the Tissington Trail.

The Tissington Trail runs along a 13 mile route from Ashbourne to Parsley Hay. At this point it joins up with the High Peak Trail, which runs from High Peak Junction to Dowlow near to Buxton. Surrounded by beautiful countryside the traffic-free trail it makes for a lovely walk, as long as you keep your wits about you to get out of the way of the cyclists! The trail was originally the trackbed of the Buxton to Ashbourne railway line, built by the LNWR and opened in 1899. In its heyday, it carried express trains from Manchester to London and until after the Second World War a daily train delivered milk from Peak District farms to Finsbury Park, London.

Following the closure of the line in the 1960s, it was decided to remove the trackbed and turn the line into a trail for the benefit of walkers, cyclists and horse riders. This experimental scheme was one of the first of its type in the country. It has been great success, since opening to the public in June 1971. Large numbers of people are attracted at weekends throughout the year and every day during peak holiday periods (http://www.derbyshire-peakdistrict.co.uk/).

We set off on the Tissington trail, from the car park. We took the trail along a public footway and ended up crossing a large field with a lot of cows and sheep. The Man was highly amused with my caution towards the cows but I know how dangerous they can be, especially when you have a dog with you! So we made quick progress and ended up a bit earlier than planned but safe in the village at Herbert’s tearooms, with a local school band playing popular songs while we had a drink and some cake. We then set off to finish the trail (more cows) with very pleasant views across the rolling Derbyshire countryside and a peaceful 3 mile walk back the car – albeit dodging the cyclists sharing the trail with us.

Sunday 12^th July

Another day threatened by rain but it actually held off and at times we got quite hot in the sun. Today we had decided to visit Dovedale which everyone says is beautiful, but there seemed to be very little information about it and we found the ‘entrance’ more by luck than judgement.

The limestone rock that forms the geology of Dovedale is the fossilised remains of sea creatures that lived in a shallow sea over the area during the Carboniferous period, about 350 million years ago. During the two ice ages, the limestone was cut into craggy shapes known as reef limestone by the melting ice, and dry caves such as Dove Holes and Reynard’s Kitchen Cave were formed.

The caves were used as shelters by hunters around 13,000 BCE, and Dovedale has seen continuous human activity since. Around 4,500 years ago Neolithic farmers used the caves as tombs. There is evidence from Reynard’s Cave of Bronze Age activity and artifacts found there are displayed at Buxton Museum and Art Gallery.

Dovedale is notable for its numerous limestone formations. The most southerly named formation, Dovedale Castle, is a short distance along the river from the stepping stones at Thorpe Cloud. A set of steps accesses the limestone promontory called Lover’s Leap. The steps were built by Italian prisoners of war captured in the Second World War and are now maintained by the National Trust and the National Park Authority.

At Lover’s Leap, a young woman who believed her lover had been killed in the Napoleonic Wars threw herself from the promontory. Her skirt caught in the branches of a tree as she fell and saved her life. When she got home, she heard her lover was alive.

Opposite Lover’s Leap is a limestone formation called the Twelve Apostles. The rock spires have been created from hard reef limestone; they protrude from the valley side, and the river has eroded the rock and soil around them.

It turned out to be a very beautiful walk along the Dove river through its valley, taking in various famous rocks, caves and holes. The walk was 3 miles to Milldale where refreshment was promised so we set off looking forward to the challenge and possibly some cake at the end of it. The start of the walk was scattered with families taking advantage of the sun, walking their dogs and kids to the famous Stepping Stones. From there the population thinned out a bit and I’m sure Lover’s Leap was a turning back point for many casual family strollers. We certainly found it a struggle and were not looking forward to having to tackle it again on the way back! But along the way the caves and Ilam rock provided a fabulous backdrop to the peaks and the various meandering and tumbling of the clear water river provided a welcome distraction when needed. Milldale was welcome when we reached it but the provisions were a bit disappointing – a hatch serving light refreshment and a damp squat on a nearby bank were all the reward for our 2 hour slog, but then we had the return journey to look forward to! By the time we reached the Stepping Stones again the Peak District families were out in their hoards enjoying their ‘Sunday afternoon – walk off the roast dinner’, and the kids and dogs efforts at tackling the stones to cross the river provided some welcome entertainment in the glorious afternoon sunshine.

We went from here to Ilam Park which is just down the road. It seemed to be advertised with Dovedale as a ‘two for one package’ but the two places could not be so different. Ilam Park is typical of the  ‘National Trust’ cloned old houses that have been manicured and manufactured to suit the coach tour day trippers for those looking for a tea garden and gift shop that sells stuff pricey enough to lull you into thinking you’re buying quality. We didn’t stay long and on the way home we stopped for a very pleasant drink at the Bentley Park Hotel (where Jim was amazingly well behaved).

 Monday 13^th July: Castleton Caravan Park

Today was moving day. Packing up and driving to Castleton in the heart of the Dales. It wasn’t that far but it was a tortuous route so took us about an hour and a half. It rained all day! Damp, drizzle, rain then greyness, then rain again. The grey stone houses along the route were a perfect backdrop to the craggy hills and low menacing clouds.

It was nice to arrive at a Caravan Club campsite – you’re immediately struck by the calm neatness and well organised air of the place. We knew we were in for quality facilities.

The rain persisted so we ventured into Castleton which I’m sure is a vibrant tourist magnet in the sunshine but looked rather deserted and desolate on a rainy Monday afternoon. It didn’t deter us from sampling some of the shops and the Castle pub before heading to Buxton to get some provisions, but we returned to the pub for a very delightful and reasonable dinner, made all the more memorable by Jim’s exemplary behaviour!

Tuesday 14^th June

The threatened rain never materialised and in fact it quite hot and sunny as the day wore on. Today our plan was to explore the Derwent Reservoir. The reservoir is in the middle of three reservoirs in the Upper Derwent Valley. It lies approximately 10 miles (16 km) from Glossop and 10 miles (16 km) from Sheffield. The River Derwent flows first through Howden Reservoir, then Derwent Reservoir and finally through Ladybower Reservoir. Between them they provide practically all of Derbyshire’s water, as well as to a large part of South Yorkshire and as far afield as Nottingham and Leicester.

Derwent Reservoir is around 1.5 miles (2 km) in length, running broadly north–south, with Howden Dam at the northern end and Derwent Dam at the south. A small island lies near the Howden Dam. The Abbey Brook flows into the reservoir from the east.

At its peak the reservoir covers an area of 70.8 hectares (175 acres) and at its deepest point is 34.7 metres (114 ft) deep.

During the Second World War the reservoir was used by pilots of the 617 Squadron for practising the low-level flights needed for Operation Chastise (commonly known as the “Dam Busters” raids), due to its similarity to the German dams. Today there is a commemorative plaque to 617 Squadron on the dam, and one of the towers on the dam houses the Derwent Valley Museum.

We took a lovely peaceful walk along the East side of the river to Howden dam. The area was wonderful, and the dams added interest and drama to the view. We stopped for a picnic before walking back and exploring Derwent dam which seems to be the main attraction but is the closest to the visitors centre and car park.

We decided to have fish and chips for tea but the fish and chip shop was closed on Tuesdays and Thursdays – so it was slim pickings for tea!

Wednesday 15^th July

We were so happy to wake up to another beautiful sunny day – pretty rare on our caravanning holidays! We were experimenting with the new George Forman grill and enjoyed bacon rolls for breakfast and then set out to explore and walk around Chatsworth.

Chatsworth House near Bakewell in Derbyshire has been home to the Cavendish family since 1549 and is the seat of the Duke of Devonshire.  We had planned to stay for our last night at Chatsworth Caravan site but as it was so close to Castleton we decided to stay on for an extra night  and just visit Chatsworth for the day.

It’s a fabulously lavish and imposing country estate. After parking we walked past the petting zoo with the shrieking children and quickly left the crowds behind by walking up some enchanting but challenging steps to the lookout tower.  When we got our breath back and the knee pain had subsided we were rewarded with an amazing view. From here we walked in blissful peace and solitude for a couple of hours in the woods and hills behind the main house eventually making our way downhill back to civilisation.

Of course we had to stop for a rewarding coffee and a walk round the gift shop – pleasant but expensive. The shop was set in the old stables and the stalls made an interesting backdrop to the bone china mugs and Irish linen tea towels. After the crowds we enjoyed a peaceful picnic back near the car, where picnic tables were set out under the trees.

On the way out of the car park there is a fantastic view of the house which reminded me of a favourite film ‘Pride and Prejudice’ where the house played the star part as Pemberely.

We were exhausted when we got back to the van – after all we had walked about 6 miles every day for the last 3 days, and poor Jim was now quite calm and quiet, almost like a normal dog! But the sun was still hot and it was our last day so we thought we had to visit Peveril Castle. We almost regretted it. The walk up to the ruin was practically vertical! We kept having to stop to get our breath, but once we were up there the views were amazing and I’m glad we did it. Our reward was a very nice pub supper at the George.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Incleboro Fields, West Runton, Cromer, Norfolk: Friday 29th May – Tuesday 2nd June 2015

So we set off in the rain again, but not to be deterred – bulldog spirit and all that!

We knew we had one of our longest journeys ahead of us so far, so were hopefully better prepared. A flask of coffee, a pre-packed picnic and lots of car sweets. I had the new caravan road map on my lap and patiently counted off all of the pages that we drove across – M4, M25, M11, A11 and on and on. We had planned to stop at services to replenish near Bishop’s Stortford but the queue to get in was off putting, so we soldiered on to ‘one of the most famous road cafes in Norfolk’ which was pretty rubbish. Long queues again and parking the caravan was a challenge. So we moved on, eating our picnic on the run.

After 5 hours of driving we eventually arrived at Incleboro Caravan Club site and managed to pitch up between the rain showers.

We are realising that the siting of the caravan pitch needs some careful thought: near enough to the shower block, but not too close so as to gaze on the constant comings and goings of people dealing with their various ablutions! With hedges/trees behind us to offer a screen and some privacy, but not too far under overhanging trees –so that when it rains the drumming on the roof is intensified. Lastly we need to ensure we get optimum sunshine at key times in the day, It just so happens that when we got home I saw an advert for a Pitchpal that determines sun position, so I got one as a little surprise gift for the Man.

The site was nice and clean and well maintained, typical of the Caravan Club, and we were happy to relax in the van with a cup of tea and iced bun.

The evening dog walk was a bit early as we were pretty tired, but I managed to capture a spectacular sunset over the adjoining golf course. A promising end to the day.

Saturday 30^th May

We woke up to beautiful sunshine, albeit a bit chilly, but a great start to our day in Cromer.

Cromer is an adorable seaside town. The cluster of buildings clinging to the hillside are a higgledy piggledy hotchpotch of narrow streets, bespoke shops and quaint cottages, all overlooking a pier that accommodatingly allows dogs.

The beaches are vast and sandy, and after a pit stop for coffee and cake, we walked 2 miles along the beach to Overstand, taking in the stunning views and sunshine. Another rest stop at the Hilltop café (a bit disappointing) we walked 2 miles back along the cliffs.

On one side shielded by bright gorse, the vast drop to the bright blue sea, and on the other, the manicured green of the golf course. This could well become the top venue contender for our retirement!

By the time we got back to the town our feet were humming, but we took a stroll along the pier and admired the variety of crabs that the kids had caught along the east side of the pier. On the way home we stopped in the quaint villages of East and West Runton before finally returning to the van for a welcome rest before we enjoyed our dinner of Cromer crab.

Sunday 31^st May

We didn’t get much sleep due to the drumming of the rain on the caravan roof, and the occasional squall when the overhead trees blew in the wind. Our plan today was a visit to Wells-Next-The-Sea and a call into Clay-Next-The-Sea. But we missed the turning to the beach at Clay so gave it a miss and ended up wandering around Wells in the rain (with me wearing the famous ‘Vera’ hat).

After a coffee we walked the mile long path to the most amazing beach I’ve ever seen. It was vast, sandy, edged by beach huts and picture postcard dunes, with the sea stretching miles to the horizon. The Man had bought me a selfie stick so we had some fun taking pictures with the amazing views behind us.

We walked back as the tide was coming in and enjoyed watching a variety of sea birds among the rising  boats moored in the harbour.  The sun came out to give us a lovely evening and fitting end to the day.

Monday 1^st June

Our last full day in Norfolk and there was still quite a lot to do. We poured over the tourist pamphlets and OS maps and decided to explore Holt and then go and have a look at Blakeney Point.

Holt is a very chi chi place. Lots of hidden lanes and cul-de-sacs with bespoke shops and coffee shops. I bought a nice blue fleece gilet in a sale and we got a new long lead for Jim. He had already escaped twice from his caravan tether during this trip! We dodged showers and had the inevitable cup of coffee and piece of carrot cake in a quaint teashop.

From here we drove to the car park by the deserted beach and walked along the vast empty shingle towards Blekeney Point , dotted by the occasional upturned boat. Jim wasn’t too keen as the shingle hurts his paws but after a while we had to turn back as dogs were banned due to the nesting birds.

We walked back further inland along the edge of Marston salt Marshes with the town of Cley behind. There were lots of swooping birds shouting to each other, and would be a paradise for twitchers.

On the way back along the coast we stopped at Sheringham and I fell in love! Now our no.1 retirement destination.  It was quaint and friendly with interesting shops and a charming beach. We enjoyed looking in the Estate Agents windows and dreaming about our seaside retirement cottage! What better way to end the day with a pint in the local pub garden – I even managed to get onto wifi – no mean feat in the wilds of North Norfolk!

Bingham Grange, Bridport: Friday 24th – Monday 27th April 2015

After weeks of unseasonably sunny, hot weather we set of on our long weekend caravan break with the threat of a rainy weekend forecast hanging over us. We arrived at Bridport early afternoon and set up camp in the Bringham Grange camping site.

The weather was dry, albeit a bit chilly, and managed a walk in the woods and fields backing the site and bordering the river Brit. The countryside was beautiful and the woods were carpeted with swathes of wild garlic. We just managed to get back before it started raining, so there was nothing else to do but read the papers and drink wine (lager for the Man).

The site is very nice, not a Caravan Club site but similar in quality. Adults only, neat pitches separated by hedges and dotted with attractive stone statues. A little shop in reception and a restaurant on site that can do a takeaway. The dog walk is pleasantly pathed with bark chippings and a welcome abundance of doggy doo bins.

The plan for a BBQ meal was rained off so we grilled indoors and then settled down in the quiet with only the rain pounding on the roof to keep us from a fully deep sleep which we were looking forward to on our newly purchased memory foam mattresses!

Saturday 25^th April

By morning the rain had exhausted itself and we completed morning ablutions and a very pleasant breakfast in misty but dry gloom. The town of Bridport was this morning’s destination and the Saturday market which was featured in many of the tourist pamphlets as ‘historic’ and ‘with chutzpah’. It didn’t disappoint. The market was spread across three town centre streets and was buzzing with interesting stalls, food, knick knacks and a folk band keeping us cheerful in Bucky Doo square.

Everyone was out with their dogs and Jim behaved himself with all but two similar sized terriers, but we reassured ourselves that the other dog started it! After a quick coffee we drove down to West Bay to have another wander round and look at the now famous cliff location for Broadchurch.

The beach was a lovely adventure for Jim who revelled in rolling in the softer sand by the pounding surf. We joined a number of tourists revelling in the Broadchurch connection with some brave souls climbing the cliff (perilously imposing and scarily unfenced).

West Bay was wonderfully dotted with bespoke shops selling all sorts of seaside tat that I find endlessly fascinating and I bought a fridge magnet, mug and postcards. The Custom House antique market was filled with an array of curios and also offered a sheltered dog friendly café where we enjoyed a rather good fish and chip lunch.

We drove down the coast to Barton Bradstock and had another walk on another beach under the crumbling cliffs with the weather closing in and the mist adding to the drama of the scene. Another coffee at Hive Bay – also dog friendly, and then home just as the rain started again. We had a wonderful day and the area has certainly gone into the top three retirement destinations.

Sunday 26^th April

Today was supposed to be the worst day for rain, but apart from a brisk wind the weather stayed dry and relatively pleasant. After breakfast we went back down to West Bay to sample the weekly car boot sale but the stalls were a bit desultory, probably put off by the weather forecast. Back into town for a bit of shopping and then back to West Bay to tackle the climb up West Cliff.

It was a long slow climb, less dramatic than the ‘Broadchurch’ cliff but just as high and daunting. Near the top we were gratefully diverted away from the breathtakingly sheer drop by fencing due to the problems with cliff erosion. We plodded on through the meadows and hillocks and came down the other side to the quaint village of Eype.

The views were awesome and when we got down to the beach it was practically deserted. It is situated at the Northern end of Chessil beach so is a mass of small stones and pebbles. I collected a few for my various craft projects while Jim miserably minced along hating the feel of the pebbles on his little feet. When we got to the end of the beach back at West Bay we had to scramble up some large rocks to reach the out of bounds jetty, passing ‘no access to the beach’ signs – a bit too late for us by then – we certainly weren’t going to walk all the way back.

On the way back to the van we had a drive through the very picturesque town of Abbotsbury and had a quick look at the sea at the oddly cut off little hamlet of West Bexington. Glad to get back for the Sunday papers and a nap!

We went back to the woods for an evening walk with the Dog and collected some wild garlic to plant in the garden at home. I also picked up a great stick to be fashioned into a walking stick for future trips. We rounded off the evening with a lovely meal in Buzzards Restaurant, a 2 minute stroll from the van. A perfect end to our weekend break.

 For more pictures of our trip to Bridport have a look here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/clooneyloon/sets/72157649893540263/