Our first trip of 2015 and we set off in glorious Spring sunshine. This was the trip we should have taken last October but my back was bad and we had to cancel at the last minute. I went on to have surgery but now I’m fit again and eager to get out and about in the van. We’re looking forward to exploring this area, getting back into the caravan vibe and doing lots of walks.
The drive was straight down the M4, boring but easy and the Severn Bridge toll was a breeze, with great views across the Severn estuary (albeit slightly ruined by a large metal fence). We arrived at the site by driving through the park of Tredegar House which is set in beautiful 90 acre grounds.
Tredegar House is one of the architectural wonders of Wales and one of the most significant late 17th-century houses in the whole of the British Isles. For more than 500 years the house was home to one of the greatest Welsh families, the Morgans, later Lords Tredegar. The Morgan family owned more than 40,000 acres in Monmouthshire, Breconshire and Glamorgan at the end of the 18th century. Their lives impacted on the population of south-east Wales socially, economically and politically and influenced the heritage of the area.
Tredegar’s name came from Tredegar Fawr, the name of the mansion or seat of the old Morgans, who were descended from Cadifor the Great the son of Collwyn; and the owners of the land upon which Tredegar stands. The earliest record of someone with the name Morgan living at Tredegar is 1402: a Llewellyn Ap Morgan.
Extravagance, eccentricities, and weighty Death duties seriously depleted the family’s financial assets throughout the next three generations. John Morgan, 6th Baron Tredegar died childless in 1962 aged 54. His death signalled the end of the Morgans of Tredegar. In 1951, Tredegar House was stripped, the remaining contents were auctioned, and the estate was sold.
After 1951 the house was bought by the Catholic Church as a Convent school with boarders, later St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic comprehensive school. It was bought by the Newport Corporation Council in 1974, giving rise to its then status as “the grandest council house in Britain”.
In December 2011 the National Trust signed an agreement with Newport City Council to take on the management of the building, as well as the 90 acres of gardens and parkland, on a 50-year lease from 2012. The Trust said that Tredegar House was of “great importance” as many similar properties had been lost in the past 100 years. The new arrangement allowed regular open access to the House (Wikipedia).
We found a nice pitch which backed onto the empty camping field and set up in the sunshine. After a quick snack and a cup of tea we took Jim for a walk around the park. Families were out in their droves, couples walking dogs and people queueing up for ice cream at the park café. It was all very cheering and there seemed to be plenty more of the park and manor grounds to explore over the next few days.
We all had a nap when we got back then settled in for the night with a luscious Mexican and Breaking Bad on the DVD, and of course plenty of wine and lager.
Sunday 8th March
It was inevitable of course that we would wake up to rain! It started with that annoying drizzle that hadn’t got the strength to fall in a normal rain like way, but just clung to you so that when you go outside you become damp but you’re not sure why! It must have rained overnight because the awning roof was sagging ominously. So we happily spent the morning warm and dry in the van, eating our breakfast and listening to the Archers tackling their own flood.
The Weather Channel promised sun in the afternoon so we set off for our pre-planned trip to the Wetlands. Passing the Hanging Bridge on the way it was a short drive to the Visitor Centre where a really nice chap gave us a map and instructions of a 4 mile circular walk that we could do with the dog. It was lovely. Most of the way had stone paths and we could stay relatively mud free – not the dog though – he was pretty mucky within a few minutes!
The views were great. We passed a group of twitchers who were equipped with lots of sophisticated equipment set on tripods, excitedly looking out for a marsh harrier. We didn’t see any exciting wildlife except a rather large dead snake (later identified as an adder), but met an old Welsh farmer turning out his cute 10 week old lambs – luckily we had Jim on a lead!
We stopped for coffee and Welsh cakes at the Visitors centre and then set off for the Fourteen Locks as it was still quite early.
Fourteen Locks is a series of locks, also known as the Cefn Flight, on the Crumlin Arm of the Monmouthshire Canal at Rogerstone Newport, Wales. The flight of locks was completed in 1799 and raises the water level 160 ft (50 m) in just 800 yd (740 m). This is one of the steepest rises for a major run in the UK which, combined with the sheer number of locks, makes it one of the most significant in the country. The run of locks includes a series of embanked ponds, sluices and weirs to control the water supply, with no set of gates shared between individual locks. It therefore comprises a flight of locks rather than a staircase(Wikipedia)
We didn’t stay long as it was getting cold, but the locks looked impressive and were scarily deep. It is certainly somewhere that we could revisit and there is circular walk that would take it all in.
One of the biggest disappointments for me today was the lack of gift shopping opportunities – I’m seriously in need of some retail therapy – so tomorrow we plan to go into Newport and suss out the town.
We came back to the van for tea and biscuits and a Miss Marple DVD. Curry for tea tonight and the next episodes of Breaking Bad.
Monday 9th March
We both had a disturbed night as it was incredibly cold! We got up at 3am to put a couple more blankets on the bed and turn the heater up to the maximum. I fully expected to see frost in the morning but it was just a cold, dull, drizzly day. We had another leisurely breakfast: croissants, sausage and bacon baguettes, orange juice, filter coffee – we know how to live!
The itinerary today was to visit a castle. There are lots around us and it was difficult to choose, but we settled on White Castle which was about 20 miles away. When we got there it was disappointingly deserted, but when we got out of the car we knew why! The elevated position made it exposed to brutal winds and perishing cold – so we decided to head back towards Newport and try Raglan Castle.
Raglan Castle is a late medieval Castle located just north of the village of Raglan, in the county of Monmouthshire in south east Wales. The modern castle dates from between the 15th and early 17th-centuries, when the successive ruling families of the Herberts and the Somersets created a luxurious, fortified castle, complete with a large hexagonal Keep, known as the Great Tower or the Yellow Tower of Gwent. Surrounded by water gardens, the castle was considered by contemporaries to be the equal of any other in England or Wales. During the English Civil War the castle was held on behalf of Charles I and was taken by Parliamentary forces in 1646. In the aftermath, the castle was slighted, or deliberately put beyond military use; after the restoration, the Somersets declined to restore the castle. Raglan Castle became first a source of local building materials, then a ruin, and is now a modern tourist attraction (Wikipedia).
We braved the bracing cold and wandered around the castle which was quite impressive, containing lots of nooks and crannies and deep staircases going down into dark, dank places. Jim enjoyed himself, particularly the back scratching potential of the old worn stone walls.
We didn’t stay long and set out in search of a farm shop. The one in the brochure was 80 miles away and the two local ones sold farm equipment, not exotic cheeses or rustic breads! So we settled for a trip into Newport town centre to check out the indoor covered market. Easier said than done! We had TomTom, a map and the i-phone but the road works made the approach very confusing. We eventually got parked and had a wander around the town. The covered market was appealing and there were charity shops and a Greggs, but having Jim with us meant that we weren’t welcome in most places so we played a leap frog game, taking it in turns to look around different shops. We brought DVDs, nice bread, cream cakes, a fridge magnet and some Welsh honey, so quite a productive afternoon.
Home to the van to watch Laurel & Hardie DVDs, have a cup of tea and look out of the steamy windows at the grey afternoon.
Tuesday 10th March
The promised sunshine did not let us down and it was a gloriously bright Spring morning. All thoughts of yesterday’s miserable weather was forgotten as we set off to explore Barry Island. Famed for the TV series ‘Gavin and Stacey’, Barry’s golden gilt had been worn away somewhat. Probably not helped with the 1996 closure of Butlins that had been on Barry Island for 30 years, as well as the subsequent recession.
It was thriving for this time of year with lots of people out walking their dogs and having coffee in the only open (and very crowded) café on the front, but the town’s struggle could be seen in the boarded up shops and closed down, dusty amusement parks. It’s a shame because the beach is stunning, with long sandy beaches and rock pools. Jim loves a sandy beach; rolling and running around and greeting the occasional dog.
We walked out along Friars Point, a large headland to the right of the beach with views out over the Knapp and the old Butlin’s site.
Then we wandered around the town which had seen better days but had the usual smattering of high street shops and a thriving market. Its endearing qualities were the free car park and the friendliness of the locals. We had conversations with at least three people who stopped to admire Jim!
After our visit to Barry we drove up the coast to look at some points along the Wales coast path but found it hard to get down to the coast line as there were no obvious signs. It’s always something we can explore at a later date.
So it was back to the van to relax and read in the sunshine and then a walk around in the park in the setting sun on the way to getting some very tasty fish and chips for tea. A lovely end to our first break of 2015 – the next one is already booked!
If you want to see more photos of our trip to Newport click here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/organize/?start_tab=one_set72157648851565232